🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.